first, wade into the surf.
second, wait for a particularly good breaking wave to approach.
third, turn your camera on and hold it just above the water - facing the wave. (as with almost all of my photos, i like aperture priority mode, aperture open as wide as possible, focus or zoom set as near as possible.)
fourth, start snapping photos, and don't stop until that wave practically hits the camera.
fifth, run to shore quickly before your legs get soaked.
it is loads of fun and you can get some great photos. (it is also why i like rain boots at the ocean.)
i have at least two other groups of photos from this set but i am so so so in love with them that i must find them each a quote.